CDM CESSPOOL SERVICE

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Lic # 108 W • 21302HI DEC # 1A777

1 Silas Carter Road - Manorville, NY
7 Montauk Highway - Quogue, NY
55 Chelsea Drive - Mt. Sinai, NY
531 Renee Drive - Bayport, NY

631-474-1261 631-653-8393

North Shore - Suffolk County

1-866-606-3920

Cesspool 101

SEPTIC SYSTEM BASICS

There are two basic components to a septic system

The septic tank
The cesspool (soil absorption area)

Here is the how the septic system works:

Waste flows from the home into the septic tank.
Organic solids float to the top and inorganic solids sink to the bottom of the tank.
Natural occurring bacteria in the septic tank converts the organic solids to liquid.
The clear liquid in between the "solids" and "sludge" layers flows into the cesspool.

How does a septic system fail? SOLID BUILD-UP!
By not servicing and maintaining your system properly, solids build up within the septic system and flow into the leaching field. This clogs the leaching field and could permanently destroy the field.

As well, household cleaners like detergents, toilet cleaners, bleach, and disinfectants kill the natural bacteria in the septic tank.

CESSPOOL SYSTEM BASICS
Here is the how the cesspool system works:

Waste flows from the home into the cesspool.
Organic solids float to the top and inorganic solids sink to the bottom of the tank.
Natural occurring bacteria in the cesspool converts the organic solids to liquid.
The clear liquid flows out the sides of the tank and into the surrounding soil.

How does a cesspool system fail? SOLID BUILD-UP!
By not servicing and maintaining your system properly, solids build up within the tank and clog the pores of the cesspool walls. This will prevent liquid from escaping the tank into the surrounding soil. In addition, the presence of inorganic household substances in the tank, like toilet cleaners, bleach, and anti-bacterial soaps will also turn into solids, clog the cesspool walls, and cause a system overflow.

SOLUTIONS: septictank should be pumped of solid buildup every 3 years (as recommended by the suffolk county department of health) so no solid matter goes into the overflow cesspool causing cesspool Failure.

CESSPOOL SERVICING

A cesspool is the draining component of the system, this should be checked every 3 years as well . if the cesspool fails there are only 2 remedies for this.

THE FIRST remedy is AERATING along with a chemical (sufuric acid) to open the drainage in the cesspool to allow the water to seep into the earth naturally.

*THE SECOND remedy is called HYDRO-JETTING along with chemical (sufuric acid), this service is the best service available,the process is done by using water to restore drainage. water is pumped through a plastic pipe into the sand at the bottom of the cesspool to (FLIP THE SLIME ) out of the sand so the chemical(sufuric acid) can dissolve it quickly and most efficently. DURING THIS PROCESS the water-level in the cesspool will start to drop instantly.allowing for usage to resume like normal.

SULFURIC ACID: this chemical must be used to restore the cesspools drainage, because the bacterial/ enzyme count was too low.( this chemical is LEGAL to use AND IS environmentally safe.

BACTERIA /ENZYME TREATMENTS: this is a good way to keep the system working properly,However if your washing machine goes into the septic system it is not recommended to use bacteria because the soaps and expecially bleach kills off the bacteria/enzymes.

1) SEPTIC TANKS: should have at least 250 gallons of capacity for each person in the house. Standard sizes are 750, 1000, 1200, and 1500 gallons. They can be constructed of precast concrete, plastic or fiberglass. Older tanks may be made of steel, which often corrode over time, or they may be built in place of block construction. Larger tanks are often divided into two chambers to improve solids separation. Manholes and inspection ports are located in the cover for service and inspections.

2) CESSPOOLS: A cesspool incorporates both functions of a septic system in one structure. It consists of a large perforated tank in which digestion takes place, surrounded by an absorption bed where suspended and dissolved solids undergo final digestion and water is filtered. Cesspools are not as efficient as other systems, more prone to failure, and difficult to restore to operation.

Inside the tank, bacteria will reproduce in the floating scum mat and bottom sludge layer. By a process called anaerobic (without oxygen) digestion. Most solid matter will be converted to water, sewer gas and a small volume of indigestible sludge which must eventually be pumped out. The rate and degree of liquefaction is determined by various factors. Included are: temperature, pH, bacterial efficiency, water usage, amount and types of waste and amounts of household cleaners, bleach, drain openers, and detergents added to the system.

WATER AND MONEY SAVING TIPS:

By reading the following paragraphs you will learn how to save on septic and cesspool cleanings, and on your water bill. If you have water saving products already, Please read on to see if they are the best products. WATER SAVING PRODUCTS are categorized this way if the product uses less water than before. WE PROMISE that you WILL use less water by checking the following things.

By doing these things, you will not only increase the lifespan of your septic system, but you will save money on your water bill. AND ULTIMATLY SAVE ON YOUR SEPTIC TANK CLEANINGS.

EXAMPLE 1: THE WASHER: THIS IS THE BIG ONE: By buying water saving washer you could save (FOR A FAMILY OF 4) up to 150 gallons of water per day...In 30 days 4500 GALLONS OF WATER in one month!!!

EXAMPLE 2: THE SHOWER HEAD: By changing your shower head to a water saver like the one illustrated with an on/off switch (so you can lather up and the water temperature stays the same) for a family of 4 you could save up to 100 gallons of water per day For 30 days is 3000 gallons of water!

By changing your aerators in your kitchen and bathrooms you could save a considerable amount of water.

EXAMPLE 3: THE KITCHEN AERATOR: If your kitchen sink has a 2.2 GPM (Gallons per Minute) usage rating and you switch it to a 1.5 GPM (Gallons per Minute) you will save almost 3/4 a gallon of water a minute. ** Lets do the math ** .75 gallons per minute and your average use for a family of 4, is 20 minutes a day, multiply this by 30 days, You saved 450 gallons of water in just one month. AND THAT’S JUST THE KITCHEN SINK.

EXAMPLE 4: THE BATHROOM SINK AERATOR: If your bathroom sink has a 2.2 GPM (Gallons Per Minute) aerator and you change it to .75 GPM(Gallons Per Minute)and your average use for a family of 4 is 20 Minutes per day, multiply this by 30 days, You saved 880 Gallons of water in just one month.

DIY TIPS ON CLEARING DRAINS,STOPPAGES AND DRAIN MAINTENANCE.

1. Unclog a Sink... Most minor sink clogs can be cleared with a plunger. Partially fill the sink with water, then start plunging. Vigorously work the plunger up and down several times before quickly pulling it off the drain opening. If it's a double-bowl kitchen sink, stuff a wet rag into one drain opening while you plunge the other one. If it's a bath sink, stuff the rag into the overflow hole. In both cases, the rag helps deliver the pressure directly to the clog.

2. Snake a Tub Drain... Its rare for a bathtub to suddenly become stopped up. A clog in the tub usually builds up over a period of several weeks, with the tub draining more and more slowly each day. We've all seen this happen.As with a sink clog, start with the plunger. First, unscrew the screen from the tub drain and use a bent wire to fish out any hair and soap scum. If there's a pop-up drain on the tub, raise the lever to the open position, then grab the stopper and pull it from the drain hole. Clean it of all hair and soap. This will often take care of things.

3. Clear a Floor Drain... In many basements, garages and laundry rooms there are floor drains that carry away wastewater from central air conditioners, washing machines, water heaters and snow-covered cars. Over time, these drains collect large quantities of soap scum, laundry lint, sand and slimy bacteria that crystallize inside the long drainpipe. To break through these tough blockages, you'll need the extra clog-clearing muscle of an electric power auger.

4. Free a Toilet Clog... Toilet clogs almost always occur at the top of the tight, up-curving trap that's part of the fixture. In some cases, a plunger can provide enough power to clear the way, but more often than not, you'll have to use a closet auger.

5. The Bubbling Method Using Vinegar and Baking Soda... Baking soda and vinegar react with each other to cause bubbles and fizzing. Sometimes the fizzing can unlodge clogs. Follow the baking soda and boiling water formula, above, with 1 cup of vinegar.

6. Washing Soda Drain Cleaner... If the water isn't going down the drain, pour a cup of washing soda over the drain area and let it set for a while to work its way down to the clog. Once the clog is loosened, use the baking soda method, above. Washing soda is more alkaline than baking soda, with a pH of 11. You never want to use washing soda if a commercial acid drain cleaner has recently been used in the drain, as they will strongly react with each other. You also shouldn't overuse washing soda if you have PVC pipes, as the caustic nature of washing soda can slowly damage the plastic.

7. Washing Soda Maintenance... Enzymes don't work as well on hair clogs, so to keep drains clear that tend to collect hair, such as in the shower and bath, a few times a month pour 1 cup of washing soda followed by a thorough flushing of water.

8. Baking Soda Drain Cleaner... If water hasn't yet backed up in your drain, pour 1 cup of baking soda followed by 3 cups of boiling water. The boiling water will change the chemical composition of baking soda, making it more alkaline. Repeat a few times until the drain is clear.

IF ALL ELSE FAILS - CALL US FOR AN APPOINTMENT

MORE WAYS TO PREVENT BACKUPS IN YOUR LATERAL AND THE MAIN LINE SEWER:

The property owner can do many things to prevent the lateral from backing up. Remember too, that the very same things can help to prevent backup's in the sewer main as well. If everyone would be careful about how they dispose of certain products, our systems would be a great deal more efficient, cause fewer backups, cost us all less money, and prevent a lot of misery.

Grease: Cooking oil should be poured into a heat-resistant container and disposed of, after it cools off, in the garbage, not the drain. Some people assume that washing grease down the drain with hot water is satisfactory. This grease goes down the drain, cools off, and solidifies either in the drain, the property owners line, or in the main sewer. When this happens, the line constricts, and eventually clogs.

Paper Products: Paper towels, disposable and cloth diapers and feminine products cause a great deal of problems in the property owner's lateral as well as in the sewer main. These products do not deteriorate quickly, as does bathroom tissue. They become lodged in portions of the lateral/main, causing a sewer backup. These products should also be disposed of in the garbage.

Roots: Shrubs and trees, seeking moisture, will make their way into sewer line cracks. These roots can cause extensive damage. They may start out small, getting into a small crack in the pipe; but as the tree or shrub continues to grow, so does the root. After time, this causes your sewer line to break, which in turn allows debris to hang up in the line, thus causing a back up. One way to prevent roots from entering your line is to replace your line and tap with new plastic pipe. The other alternative is to be careful about planting greenery around your sewer line. If you have continuing problems with tree roots in your lateral, you may have to have them cut periodically. If you have a plumber clean roots out of your lead, please call us so that we can clean the sewer main.

Sewer Odor: Another concern that property owners have is that they can smell sewer odors inside their home or building. There are many ways to prevent this from occurring. Under each drain in your plumbing system, there is a "P-trap". If there is water in this fitting, odor or gases from the sewer cannot enter through the drain from either the property owner's lateral or the sewer main. Periodically, check to make sure that unused floor drains, sinks, etc have water in the "P-trap". Another way to prevent sewer odor is to ensure that the vents, which are located on your roof, are free from bird nests, leaves, etc. When these vents are clear, the sewer odors will escape through these vents.

Illegal Plumbing Connections: DO NOT connect French drains, sump pumps and other flood control systems to your sanitary sewer. It is illegal, and debris and silt will clog your line. Consult a plumber to correct any illegal connections.

Needles: Unfortunately, some people dispose of hypodermic needles in the sewer system. The presence of these needles in the wastewater collection system presents special and possible deadly problems for wastewater collection and wastewater treatment employees. PLEASE DO NOT FLUSH NEEDLES. The proper method of disposal is to re-cap the needle and put it into a "sharps container". (This could be any rigid plastic container such as a bleach bottle...no milk bottles please.) When it is full, tape the container securely, and call your local pharmacy for advice on proper disposal methods.

PLEASE DO NOT FLUSH THEM OR THROW THEM INTO THE GARBAGE!

GREASE BUILD UP IN SEWER LINES

We have found that a large number of sewer line blockages are caused by grease. Over time, large quantities of grease flowing through the drain build up on the walls of the pipeline. This deposit can clog the pipe entirely, or collect solid matter to cause a blockage.

How grease blockages are cleared
Mechanical clearing of a drain clogged with grease removes most of the build up. After mechanical clearing of the drain, the wall of the pipe retains some of the grease. To entirely clean the wall of the pipe, a high pressure jetting machine is used to clean the pipeline. This procedure removes all build-up present in the pipeline.

Where the grease comes from:
Grease is normally the result of cooking by-products. Grease build up can occur from the following products:

Meat Fats
Cooking Oil
Mayonnaise
Butter & Margarine
Sauces
Food Scraps

Garbage disposal units, while grinding scraps into smaller pieces, do not prevent grease entering the pipeline.

Preventing grease entering the drain:
It is impossible to stop ALL grease from entering your sewer system, however a few things can be done to minimise it's presence. Empty scraps from plates and cooking items into a refuse bin, or bury under soil. You can use sink strainers to also minimise greasy items entering the drain, empty these into a refuse bin.

Maintaining you grease trap (where applicable)

Never let solids enter your grease trap
Inspect your grease trap on a monthly basis
Check chemicals entering the grease trap are designed to do so. ie. Biodegradable

TREE ROOTS VS. SANITARY SEWER LINES

Root Growth in Pipes:

Roots require oxygen to grow, they do not grow in pipes that are full of water or where high ground water conditions prevail. Roots thrive in the warm, moist nutrient rich atmosphere above the water surface inside sanitary sewers.

The flow of warm water inside the sanitary sewer service pipe causes water vapor to escape to the cold soil surrounding the pipe. Tree roots are attached to the water vapor leaving the pipe and they follow the vapor trail to the source of the moisture, which are usually cracks or loose joints in the sewer pipe.

Upon reaching the crack or pipe joint, tree routes will penetrate the opening to reach the nutrients and moisture inside the pipe. This phenomenon continues in winter even though trees appear to be dormant.

Problems Caused by Roots Inside Sewers:

Once inside the pipe, roots will continue to grow and if not disturbed, they will completely fill the pipe with multiple hairlike root masses at each point of entry. The root mass inside the pipe becomes matted with grease, tissue paper, and other debris discharged from the residence or business.

Homeowners will notice the first signs of a slow flowing drainage system by hearing gurgling noises from toilet bowls and observing wet areas around floor drains are completing the laundry. A complete blockage will occur if no remedial action is taken to remove the roots/blockage.

As roots continue to grow, they expand and exert considerable pressure at the crack or joint where they entered the pipe. The force exerted by the root growth will break the pipe and may result in total collapse of the pipe. Severe root intrusion and pipes that are structurally damaged, will require replacement.

Tree Roots in Sewers:

Tree roots growing inside sewer pipes are generally the most expensive sewer maintenance item experienced by City residents. Roots from trees growing on private property an on parkways throughout the City are responsible for many of the sanitary sewer service backups and damaged sewer pipes.

Home owners should be aware of the location of their sewer service and refrain from planting certain types of trees and hedges near the sewer liners. The replacement cost of a sanitary sewer service line as a result of damage from tree roots may vary from $1000 to $5000.

Susceptible Pipes to Root Damage:

Some pipe material are more resistant to root intrusion than others. Clay tile pipe, that was commonly installed by developers and private contractors until the late 1980's, was easily penetrated and damaged by tree roots. Concrete pipe and no-corrode pipe may also allow root intrusions to a lesser extent than clay tile pipe.

PVC pipe is more resistant to root intrusion because it usually has fewer joints. The tightly fitting PVC joints are less likely to leak as a result of settlement of backfill around the pipe.

Types of Trees Responsible:

Various species of trees have different water requirements. Trees that have a high water demand characteristics have root systems capable of following water vapor escaping from leaking pipes and will exploit the source inside the pipe. The top six species of trees to exploit the moisture inside sewer pipes are listed in order below:

Popular

Willow

Elm

Ash

Birch

Birch

Sycamore

Other trees and woody shrubs commonly associated with sewer root problems are: Maple, Cottonwood, Russian Olive, Apple, Pear, Lilac Honeysuckle and Chokecherry.

Root Spread:

During drought conditions and in winter, tree roots travel long distances in search of moisture. As a general rule, tree roots will extend up to 2.5 times the height of the tree, and some species of trees may have roots extending five to seven times the height of the tree.

Root Growth Control:

The common method of removing roots from sanitary sewer service pipes involves the use of augers, root saws, and high pressure flushers. These tools are useful in releasing blockages in an emergency, however, cutting and tearing of roots encourages new growth. The effect is the same as pruning a hedge to promote faster, thicker, and stronger regrowth. Roots removed by auguring are normally just a small fraction of the roots inside the pipe.

To augment the cutting and auguring methods, there are products available commercially that will kill the roots inside the pipe without harming the tree. The use of products such as copper sulphate and sodium hydroxide are not recommended because of negative environmental impacts on the downstream receiving water. Also, these products may kill the roots but they do not inhibit regrowth.

The more modern method used throughout Canada and the United States for controlling root growth involves the use of a herbicide mixed with water and a foaming agent. The foam mixture is pumped into the sewer pipe to kill any roots that come into contact with the mixture. New root growth will be inhibited from three to five years after the treatment according to the manufactures.

A television inspection of the pipe to determine the extent of the root damage before the treatment application is recommended. Consult the yellow pages under the heading of "Sewer Service" for further information o companies that perform television inspections of pipes and root control.

IF ALL ELSE FAILS - CALL US FOR AN APPOINTMENT

YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM DEPENDS ON THE YEAR OF YOUR HOUSE

1972 to present

During this time period a home with up to four bedrooms would have a pre-cast septic tank as well as an eight foot wide by ten foot deep overflow cesspool also known as a leachpool. Which are constructed of pre-cast concrete, meaning they will not collapse. However they are non traffic bearing, so do not drive any type of vehicles near or over them. If you plan to add walkways or driveways it is recommended to change the system to traffic bearing status, as well to have the lines checked to make sure that they meet current codes and are in good working order. If your home is in a high water table your system will differ depending on the water table. Your home could have up to five overflow cesspools. Around 1980 companies started using plastic pipelines from the house to septic tank and overflow. If your house was built around this date or before the lines should be checked to sure that orangeberg pipelines were not used. Orangeberg pipe is material which consisted of tarpaper and cardboard material and will detearate, so have it checked before doing any of these projects

1971-1956

This system consists of two block style cesspools which are prone to collapsing however it had a good concept for their time frame, almost all of these systems used orangeberg pipelines ( which consisted of tarpaper and cardboard) this entire system is on borrowed time, you should have your two cesspools located and avoid these areas as much as possible...

1955 and earlier

          This system consisted of one block or brick style cesspool which are not very efficient and are very prone to collapsing and have three different types of pipelines, one is called orangeberg ( which consist of tarpaper and cardboard ) the second is called clay ( which was usually installed in two to three foot sections ) and are very prone to settling as well developing root infestation problems. The third is called cast iron, which has an outdoor life expectancy of about thirty years

Homes on sewer systems:

         Homes on sewer systems usually are connected from the home to the street with plastic pipelines, however older homes have concrete pipelines (known as transit pipe). Usually in five foot sections, which are also very prone to root infestation. So before major projects such as walkway and driveway projects have the pipeline evaluated

Warning: If you are on a public sewer system you should not attempt to clean your pipeline because if you open the main house trap and if the blockage is in the street you can flood out your house with the entire neighborhoods sewage.....